Named for the actress Jane Birkin, the Hermès Birkin bag was introduced in 1984 and quickly cemented its place as the world’s most coveted handbag. But, with a price point upwards of $10,000 and limited availability, securing one remains out of reach for the majority of consumers. According to a flood of viral videos on TikTok however, you can find an almost identical bag in Walmart – the US discount store – for just $80. The dupe, nicknamed the ‘Wirkin’ (for the wirkin class), has garnered media headlines across the globe and sparked debate on the ethics and legality of copycats and the dupe economy. The Wirkin has hit a nerve, highlighting the rise of dupe culture and a shift in consumer mindset around luxury goods.
In fashion, seeking out lower cost alternatives is nothing new. The high street fashion industry was built on the principle of selling affordable clothing inspired by catwalk pieces. However, where previous generations were more circumspect in admitting to owning a copycat product, the rise of social media shopping has seen an explosion in ‘Dupe Culture’ as Generation Z embrace and encourage the purchase of dupes among their peers. According to a legion of fans, luxury is not about exclusivity and the Wirkin is even better than the real thing
We Want What We Can’t Have
In a world where fashion fads change overnight and social media fuels an insatiable demand for the new, the Birkin has retained its spot as the world’s most desirable luxury item.
Its appeal lies not only in its quality – each bag goes through a painstaking manufacturing process and is hand-sewn by a single artisan – but in its scarcity and exorbitant price point.
Such is its allure, two women in California last year filed a lawsuit claiming that the barriers to purchasing one are too high, reinforcing the Birkin as the unwavering status symbol of the super elite. How then, can a mass-market copycat handbag possibly compete?
Unlike counterfeits – unauthorised copies of genuine products passing themselves off as the real thing – dupes are merely inspired by original products. They are not designed to trick or confuse customers, but to offer a more affordable and readily available alternative.
But there’s a thin line between inspiration and imitation, and this can greatly impact its appeal among consumers. Counterfeits are illegal – penalties for selling them include hefty fines and prison sentences. In some countries, purchasing and even wearing counterfeits is similarly prohibited.
Ahead of the Olympics in France last year, warning notices appeared in airports informing consumers that they could face penalties of up to €300,000 and three-years imprisonment if they were found buying or wearing counterfeits. For many consumers, this is not a risk they are willing to take, and even less likely to boast about among their peers.
Is it Legal?
The question as to whether the Wirkin breaches any intellectual property laws is up for debate. The bag doesn’t use the Hermès logo and it is obvious that the craftsmanship is far removed from Hermès quality.
However, critics argue that the bag falls foul of trade dress laws, with Hermès owning the rights to the overall look or configuration of the bag, which includes its shape, padlock clasp and keyhole shaped openings. It’s notable that amidst the media furore over the bag, it disappeared from the Walmart website, perhaps as a result of a carefully crafted letter from the Hermès legal team.
Legalities aside, there’s little doubt that copycats have become more socially acceptable. A 2023 study conducted by the EU Intellectual Property office found that almost half of 15–24-year-olds in Europe believe that it is acceptable to purchase knockoff products if the price of the original is too expensive. This was a marked increase on a similar study carried out in 2019, underscoring our changing relationship with luxury brands and the values attached to them in an evolving fashion landscape.
Frugality Rules - Why Spend More Than You Need To?
The former fashion business model of Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter collections has changed. Fuelled by social media, trend cycles have accelerated and come and go at lightning speed and a younger generation who share their lives – and outfits – online each day are constantly updating their wardrobes.
Spending three and four figure sums on a fashion product with no longevity just doesn’t make sense. Attitudes to finances have also changed. Those who came of age amid the 2008 financial crash have a more prudent mindset when it comes to money. Frugality has become cool.
And, given the steep price increases in the luxury sector –according to Vogue Business the average price of global luxury goods has risen 61% since 2019 – it’s understandable that finding ways to save money and disseminating this information on social media is encouraged. Today the question is – why spend more money than you have to?
